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Our winter journey to southern Norway with a teenager
After years of skiing in the largest ski resort in Europe, we don't just want a ski vacation but a true winter journey. We've done this once before in the Swedish Lapland, but we didn't ski there, and that's what Fleur and Léon particularly love. It's their favorite holiday, so we chose to go during the Christmas break.
With a winter journey, we aimed to balance skiing with other exciting winter activities, such as sea fishing, taking a natural ice bath, and visiting a husky farm. We chose southern Norway because it was a snow-sure destination, and the winter landscape was said to be enchantingly beautiful, quite different from what we were used to and had seen before. We were not disappointed but rather surprised because it was even more beautiful in reality than we had seen in the photos beforehand.
Our preparations for a varied winter journey
We had heard good stories about Setesdal in southern Norway. This area started just above Kristiansand and extended north to Hovden, the largest ski resort in southern Norway. We were not familiar with the area ourselves, so we thoroughly researched where we could ski and planned a logical route by car. We chose to start in Hovden and then drive down through the ski resorts in Brokke and, finally, Bortelid.
We traveled by car because it was loaded not only with our ski gear but also with a mountain of warm clothing. We had read in advance that it could be quite cold, and when it was windy, the wind chill was even colder. On the mountain and in the ski lifts, we wanted to minimize the impact. Additionally, we were going to a husky farm where we planned to spend half a day outdoors with the dogs, and we were going to take an ice bath! That’s why we didn’t just bring ski suits, thermal underwear, and fleece vests but also swimwear to wear in the icy water, alongside our hats and gloves.
Skiing in the highest ski resort in Setesdal
We embarked on our skiing adventure in Hovden, the highest and northernmost ski resort in Setesdal. Opting to make it our first stop, we then planned to continue our journey downward. Hovden holds the 8th position in size among Norway’s 173 ski resorts, with a ski slope span of just over 42 km. Perched at an altitude of 1183 meters, it claims the title of the highest ski resort in Setesdal. The ski season at Hovden extends from mid-November to early May, offering an ample window for skiing enthusiasts. The resort features nine surface and chairlifts that transport visitors to 34 meticulously groomed slopes.
The ski area caters to a diverse range of skill levels, providing accessible slopes for young children and beginners. However, it also offers challenges for more experienced skiers like Léon, Fleur, and myself on the longer and steeper trails. As we navigated the slopes, we savored the panoramic view of the frozen Hartevatnet lake in the distance.
One remarkable aspect of Hovden is the opportunity for nighttime skiing, allowing enthusiasts to ski on illuminated slopes until 21:00—an experience not commonly found in our usual skiing destinations. Consequently, our evenings involved donning ski gear rather than pajamas, adding an extra touch of magic to bedtime. Hovden emerged as a stunning and distinctive ski destination, offering a unique blend of skiing joy during the day and a variety of winter activities in the village and its surroundings.
Ice bathing in Hovden
Hovden is the largest of the three ski resorts we visited in Setesdal, offering more than just skiing, snowboarding, and cross-country skiing. The area featured an open-access ice-skating rink, and visitors could take a dip in the pool. Additionally, an adventurous option was to experience a natural ice bath in the river, which we decided to do.
As the sun rose and the moon still graced the sky, we, accompanied by a guide, headed to the Otra River. There was a spot where we could access the water via a staircase, but first, we needed to break through the ice. Given the freezing temperatures, it was a chilly -19 degrees Celsius outside. We had been instructed to dress warmly but comfortably, allowing for a quick change after the ice bath. Thus, beneath our ski suits, we only wore our swimwear.
The guide took the plunge first, and we followed suit. Barefoot but donning hats and gloves, we immersed ourselves in the icy water. Our guide talked us through the two minutes, advising us to maintain calm breathing. After two minutes, we exited the water, quickly dried off, and slipped into our warm ski attire and snow boots. Warming up with a cup of hot tea, this was truly the coolest experience of our entire journey!
Brokke, a ski resort with a silver lining
After two days of skiing in Hovden, we drove an hour down the Setesdal to our next destination, Valle. Here, we had a beautiful cabin by the Otra River with a view of impressive snow-covered mountains. This was our base for short walks in the area and skiing in Brokke, which was a 10-minute drive up the mountain. The silver lining to our trip was that Valle is known as the “silver town” because of its rich silver craftsmanship. During a walk in the surroundings of Valle, we also visited a silversmith in his shop and got a glimpse and demonstration in his workshop. It was nice to see and warm up inside after a walk.
A cool hiking tip is to walk across the 134-meter-long suspension bridge over the Otra River. Children especially find this exciting and awesome. From Valle, you cross the road and almost immediately reach the bridge. After crossing, you can explore the area for a while before returning to the bridge to go back to the other side. Although we were not in Valle for hiking but for skiing in Brokke, we took the opportunity to experience what it’s like to ski in a truly small ski resort.
A small gem, that’s Brokke. On a mountain at an altitude of 550 to 780 meters, three ski lifts are located, and according to the map, six slopes are laid out over 5.8 kilometers among the pine trees. Here, both experienced and beginner skiers easily find their own way along the slopes. For us, seasoned skiers, this ski area feels like a cozy playground. We don’t cover many kilometers here, but we do enjoy the beautiful surroundings, the friendliness, and the alternative ski routes we create ourselves. It’s a ski area where you can easily learn to ski, and once you’ve explored the area with them, older children can navigate the slopes on their own.
Despite not being highly elevated, the snow reliability here is noteworthy. Skiing is often possible from early December to late April. This varies by ski season, as artificial snow is not used here. Although it gets dark quite early, some slopes are illuminated, allowing you to ski until 8:00 PM.
Skiing in the southernmost ski area of the Setesdal region
Bortelid in the Setesdal is located 100 kilometers from Kristiansand, making it the southernmost ski resort in Norway. We visited this as the last ski area on our route through the Setesdal. Before arriving in Bortelid, we drove one of the most beautiful routes we had taken in South Norway during our winter vacation. With heavy snowfall, we traversed frozen roads surrounded by snow-covered trees towards the village.
It is a ski area particularly popular among Norwegian families. Norwegians prefer to come here every weekend and every holiday. According to Fleur, this is where she enjoyed skiing the most. It’s a small area, and she easily took the tow lift back up to slalom down again.
The ski area in Bortelid is situated at an altitude of 800 meters and features 14 slopes accessible by five tow lifts. The 100-meter-long conveyor belt on the children’s slope is one of the longest in Norway. This ensures that skiing is well catered for the youngest ones, allowing parents to easily watch from the sidelines. Depending on snowfall and weather conditions, as many slopes as possible are open.
Moreover, here we did one of the coolest things we had never done before. We got to ride in the snow groomer and prepare our own slope. We always see these enormous machines at work when we are on a skiing vacation, and now we got to sit in one ourselves. Who can say they have prepared their own slope! Once again, an incredibly cool experience that we enjoyed during this winter trip!
Adventure with huskies at the Sirdal Huskyfarm
Sirdal is the place in South Norway where we could check off one of our bucket list items. We got to steer a dog sled ourselves. In the midst of a winter landscape, the Sirdal Huskyfarm stands. The journey itself was already beautiful, with snow-covered roads, where the typical red and yellow-colored Norwegian houses stood out against the white snow and were nestled among snow-covered trees. We passed frozen lakes and saw the largest icicles along the walls of the mountains.
At this farm, you don’t just come for a sleigh ride; it’s a complete experience, which is why we chose to visit this place. We not only got acquainted with the huskies but also received explanations about the care of the dogs and the operation of the sled, which we got to harness the dogs for. After this, the highlight was when we finally got to steer the sled ourselves. A day earlier, we were in a snow groomer, and now we traversed the snow-covered plain, pulled by five enthusiastic sled dogs. A must-do and an unforgettable experience for every winter enthusiast, young and old.
Lindesnes, the southernmost point of Norway
I have a special affinity for lighthouses; somehow, they attract me, and I find them photogenic. Our last stop at the end of our journey through Southern Norway before heading to the ferry in Kristiansand was Lindesnes. This is the southernmost town in Norway, and we couldn’t miss it. As we needed to be on time for the ferry, it was a quick visit. From the parking lot, we carefully walked up the slippery and snow-covered steps. Meanwhile, a chilly wind was blowing.
The lighthouse was open to visitors, and from the top, you had a beautiful 360° view of the sea and the snowy landscape we’d been driving through. It’s indeed a must-visit when you’re in Southern Norway. The road leading to it is also stunning, running directly along the coast. For us, it was a particularly beautiful end to our winter vacation in Southern Norway.
Advice for a winter trip to southern Norway
Ensure that your car is equipped with good winter tires. Additionally, it is advisable to bring snow chains. The roads in Southern Norway can be snowy and slippery, unlike what we are accustomed to in the Netherlands. This precaution comes in handy amidst the beautiful snow-covered winter landscape you’ll be driving through during your journey.
Why a winter vacation in southern Norway is fantastic with children:
You drive to your destination(s) through a truly enchanting winter wonderland.
It's a snow-sure winter vacation destination. Fun in the snow is guaranteed!
Ski resorts are small-scale, making them child-friendly.
There is no mass tourism in southern Norway; towns and villages are small and cozy. Ideal for a visit with children.
In addition to skiing, there are many different winter activities suitable for families with both young and older children, such as cross-country skiing, snow walks, sledding, and husky tours.
